WOMAD

I have been a fan of World Music for a very long time. It started with my Dad listening to Bob Marley when I was a kid and it expanded from there. As a music fan, there is not much I won't listen to and world music is quite wonderful. African and Cuban are definitely my faves, but I am open to anything.

So Womad has always been on my radar. I would have died to see Angelique Kidjo do her Talking Heads set last year. I always seem to think about it when it is too late to book or after the fact. But when I realised my holidays would align with it this year, I bought a 4 day pass before a single act had been revealed.

A few months later, Mavis Staples was announced and I cried with joy. She would be worth the admission price alone without anyone else. Month by month the line-up grew and with each announcement I also grew more excited. By the time Ziggy Marley was revealed as THE headline act, I was beside myself. It felt like my world music life had come full circle. I would never get to see Bob obviously, but his son was pretty darn close. Alas, this was not to be, as Ziggy pulled out of the festival just days before the start. I was pretty upset but had bought my ticket before he was announced, so c'est la vie!

I spent a lot of time researching leading up the festival. 7 Stages with some acts playing simultaneously and all acts overlapping PLUS theatre, talks, art, food, market stalls, and on it went. They released a playlist of all the acts, I listened to them all and ranked them on how much I liked what I heard. Only 2 or 3 were bumped, and I spent a long time sorting out who I would listen to. Luckily most did multiple shows over the 4 days.

Cut to Friday 6 March 2020 and I made my way to Day 1.

Day 1 is a half day, starting at 4pm.

I entered the park and was immediately overwhelmed by the size of things. I knew it would be large, I had read the map. But things were further away from each other than the map would suggest. It would take me a while to work things out. So I proceeded with plenty of time before I would settle for the first act. The vibe was fabulous, there was a lot of people, but not packed. There was plenty of room to move and get around.

I have to admit I am not a big festival or outdoor person, I like the idea of it but as an introvert I get overwhelmed, and often not in a good way. I was dressed comfortably, but realised early on my joggers would have been a better move and my casual dress wasn't as comfortable as other clothes I had. The park IS a park, mostly dirt paths and grass, fairly flat, a few dips and lots of tree roots. And I am a clumsy person, so once it got dark, I struggled a little. I am also not a fan of portaloos. Crowds bother me, but that wasn't soo bad. It was hot and there wasn't a lot of shade near the stages and also not much seating. That sounds a lot but it wasn't really.

As the days went by, I found 'hacks' for most of those issues and got used to things. I started to remember where things were and didn't need to use the map as much. If I had to go from one side of the park to the next, I knew I had to leave some gigs early and get to others late. I did some rearranging of my schedule each night to make this a little easier. I worked out where all the loos were and which ones were easier to get to, use etc. For each stage i found areas that were shady and had chairs, they may not have had the best views of the stage and artist but I could hear the music perfectly and I spent time near the stage at the beginning or the end. I didn't go for food at key times, too long a line. I dressed better and more comfortably. I had plenty of sunscreen and a hat. The unease I had at times at Day 1 pretty much disappeared as the weekend went on.

Day 1 started wonderfully with a Welcome to Country, we were on Karna Ground. There was Aboriginal Dance and music, it was electric.

And with that The Blind Boys of Alabama came out. I have been a fan for a long time, only one of the original 'Boys" remains, but they are still wonderful. They came out hand on the person in front of them, made their way to their seats and instruments. They played a fantastic and moving set. I usually like to try and remember what songs are at gigs. But with so many acts over so many days that was too much.

Moving to gig 2, Kate Miller-Heidke, I came across Company Archibald Caramantran for the first time. They are a French puppetry company, but puppets unlike you have ever seen. Huge puppets that dance around. I was so taken by them, such joy. I love anything larger than life!

Kate Miller-Heidke was brilliant as you would expect, I had a good spot right up the front, the sun was setting and it was divine. Halfway through the gig the giant puppets danced their way through the crowd and it was surreal and fun.

Next up was Stellie, an indie Aussie act. She was lovely and sounded great, pop-folk I guess.

And finally Ngaiire from Papua New Guinea with her pop/dance music. She was wonderful and engaging, and charismatic.

Cat Empire was on last, but I was tired and overwhelmed, and the majority of the crowd were headed for it. I decided to give it a miss and head home, it was already 10pm. I caught some of the installations from Craig Walsh as I headed out the park. Walsh displayed large visuals of his portrait photography of regular people in the large trees of the gardens.

Day 2 was a full day and evening, with the gates opening at 11, got there and explored the food areas. It was a warm day, but had lovely moments of breeze, if you found the right spot.

After some food and chatting to people around me I made my way to the gin bar. It was situated near to Stage 3 on top of a little hill. I found a chair and table until a tree with a great view of the stage and plopped myself down.

Tami Neilson was one of the artists that featured near the top of my list. She was written up as a cross between Aretha and Adele so I was super excited. Tami did not disappoint, she had a huge stage presence, and a powerful voice. Like really powerful, the Aretha/Adele link was more than correct. But add in a little country. 

Later I read Tami, a Canadian living in NZ, sang in her family country band from a young age.  You can see this from her professionality, she has been doing this a long time. A born storyteller, she chatted in between songs, she was funny and interesting, a feminist, and a romantic. Her songs ranged from pop to rock to rockabilly to blues to country to jazz. I was instantly in love. I love those moments when you discover something new that you know will stick with you forever! She was definitely my highlight of the festival!

Circolombia was next up, on the big stage, they were a high energy circus/acrobat act with latin music, hip hop, and dance.

Gelareh Pour's Garden was more intimate at the smaller, Zoo, stage, an Iranian group playing Persian instruments with an ambient folk, pop, rock feel. 

I meandered to the far top of the park to the Morton Bay stage. Under the shade of many large, old Morton Bay Fig Trees I saw 2017 Eurovision winner, Luisa Sobrol from Portugal. Lusia had the audience in the palm of her hand. She had a 3 piece horn section and another guy on guitar. She was very pregnant, gentle and humble, telling lovely stories in English in between singing her beautiful, soothing songs in Portuguese. 

I had an early dinner and then moved to see Aldous Harding, Aldous is an indie pop/folk singer from NZ. I didn't mind her, but wasn't that taken. She sounded a little weak, but I did like her eccentric stage presence.

I headed back to the Zoo stage to listen to the sublime Deline Briscoe, a Yalangi singer from the Daintree. Deline sang a range of styles from traditional to pop to jazz. One to watch out for.

Public Opinion Afro Orchestra, all 18 of them, were up next and they were remarkable. Large and loud, from Australia, but playing in the Nigerian style, Afrobeat. They were full of messages, political and environmental, sang and danced with high energy and were the best way to finish day 2

As I walked out the park to grab my evening cab home, I saw hundreds and hundreds of bicycles lined up. WOW, how amazing!

Day 3 commenced with a light brunch and caught up with a guy I had met on the first day, We chatted for a bit and exchanged notes on what we had seen and were about to see. Womad is so friendly, I spoke to so many people over the weekend, usually at eating spots, from all over the world.

As it was International Women's Day, my first port of call was the IWD address, by the one and only Jan Fran. I love her spunk and intelligence so very much and she absolutely delivered to a packed crowd of adoring fans. We laughed and we cried, cause that is the kind of orator she is.

It was also a really hot day, so I spent more time under the shade of trees munching on food until the middle of the day heat disappeared.

Bill Callaghan was a really laid back act; folk/country from the US. Stories and songs, he was great.

From there to high style jazz and funk from Venezuelan act, Los Amigos Invisibles. Discovered by David Byrne, they really showed us a good time.

I rearranged my schedule to fit in a second session with Tami Neilson. It would appear I was not the only one doing the same, I chatted to a few people around me and they had all been blown away by her other gig! She was at the smaller, more intimate Morton Bay stage, so I was closer to her and again was super impressed. 

I had to leave it early to grab some food on the way to the other edge of the park to see William Barton and Veronique Serrett perform

And what a show they gave, they were joined by William's mother Delmae, also a musician, but a poet and performer too. I don't need to tell you that this was something special. Veronique played the violin and some percussion and backing vocal. William played the didgeridoo - he is our most famous player - guitar, and other aboriginal instruments, plus singing, sometimes a few things at once. Delmae, sang with him and recited her poems. It was hypnotic and magical and super special. I was in awe of their beauty and talent. It ended with a poem Delmae wrote to her our land - after fires and floods - and there was a quiet in the area I hadn't heard all weekend. I was in tears, nothing I say or show here will ever, even remotely, come close to how special this was.

Orquesta Akokan were a 12 piece sharp and sassy Cuban band. They had the whole festival shakin' and movin'. Their groove and happy humanity were infectious!

Jorge Ben Jor is the King of Brazilian Samba and Bossa Nova. His huge band backed his soaring vocals, and continued the carnivale fun at the festival.

And like that, there was only 1 day to go!

Day 4

I had a later start on the final day. I spent some time wandering and keeping cool in the shade, having a late lunch/early dinner.

Liniker e os Caramelows are a high frequency Brazilan reggae/funk troop led by the energetic Liniker. Dance and movement is high on their agenda, the park was going off. Loved them so much.

Ezra Collective are a hip-hop/jazz group from the UK. A young group, they were fierce and funky. One to keep your eye on.

Odette is a young Australian pop/jazz singer and she gave a great polished set.

I left early to find a good spot for Mavis Staples, it was super hot and she was on the main stage where there is not a lot of shade. I scored a chair and popped myself under a small tree a little bit away from the stage. I would move closer as it cooled down. Mavis owned the stage and entertained us with not only her songs but stories from her life. Mostly stories of survival and activism, she was there at Selma and Martin Luther King Jnr was a friend of her father, Pops. At 80 she had the huge and varse audience in the palm of her hands.

Next up was the subtle tones of Laura Marling, I found a deckchair in the shade and kicked back to her lovely ballads and pop music. It was just Laura and a guitar, amazing.

The whole festival was superb people watching, one of my favourite things to do. While I was listening to Laura and people watching, I saw a cool pair of overalls and was thinking to myself, I'd wear them when I realised it was Tami Neilson. I felt compelled to go up to her and thank her, but didn't want to disturb her. I went up and apologised, but she was, oh honey, you're not disturbing me. We had a little chat and took a pic and off she went. How lovely and generous.

My last gig was an unusual one, a classical duo, Caitrin Finch and Seckou Keita. Caitrin is a harpist from Wales and Seckou is a percussionist from Senegal. He is also a master of the Griot Kora. It was a relaxing and haunting way to end the musical part of the festival.

My final event was As the Word Tipped, a high-wire environmentally themed theatrical offering from UK's Wired Aerial Theatre. It is a complex story of endangered animals, The United Nations and culminating at the Copenhagen Climate Conference. As things worsen, the stage the actors are on starts to tip and move until it is lifted completely off the ground by a large crane, the actors hanging off the top of it, some of them dropping off the edge. Under the moonlight, it was quite incredible. 

And with that, exhausted but fulfilled, my 4 days of World Music was over. I happily caught my cab home and whilst I needed sleep, I knew I would dream wonderful things.

My top 10 acts of the festival were:

10. Laura Marling 
9. Blind Boys of Alabama
8. Orquesta Akonkon
7. Liniker e os Caramelows
6. Public Opinion Afro Orchestra
5. Mavis Staples
4. Kate Miller-Heidke
3. Luisa Sobrol
2. William Barton 
1. Tami Neilson

with honorable mentions to Jan Fran and the big Puppets!!!!!