Friday, September 28, 2012

MILAN TO VERNAZZA

Good morning from Vernazza!!
It's Friday here and the day of my cousin's wedding, so rather exciting.

So, we left Milan on Tuesday, all 19 of us on a bus (regular greyhound style), setting off for Vernazza via Parma and Tuscany.

Arriving at the castle by bus

Lunch was at Antica Corte Pallavincina, a small castle built in 1320. Here is where they 'make' Culatello Ham. We had a tour through the magnificent building, very old with amazing frescoes on the ceilings and then down into the cellar where we saw thousands of Hams hanging in the natural air. Peple come from all over to hang a Ham and there is a waiting list. Prince Charles and Monaco royalty have Hams hanging. Apparantly MasterChef did something here and they have one hanging. The smell was overwhelming, not bad, but not that good either!

 Piles of pumpkins in the courtyard
 
 Mum sitting regally in the old chair in the castle with Neale behind her
 
Chandelier and frescoes in the castle
 
Hams hanging in the cellar

From there we continued to another room which is used as a wine cellar and watched a short film on how they get the Ham and other cold cuts ready and then moved to the cheese room where huge rounds of Parmesan are sitting. And in that room a feast of cold meats and parmesan with sweet red wine awaited...unlike anything I have ever tasted.

 Fabulous spread for lunch
 
Parmesan wheels
 
After a wander around the farm yard we headed on our way to Cinque Terre through a small part of Tuscany - the scenary was stunning...I am going to need a theasaurus for new superlatives by the end of the trip.

 Amanda, Dad, Mum and me at the castle
 
The Castle
 
We arrived at the top of the hill at Monetrosso and left our brave bus driver (the hills and roads were windy, sharp and tight). We were taken to the seaside village of Monetrosso by mini vans, a few trips! Then we had gelato by the sea while we waited for the train into Vernazza.

Beach at Monetrosso
 

Then the 'fun' hit, up flights up stairs to the station (no idea how disabled people get around here!), getting onto the train with luggage was stressful, the train have high stairs up into them, then off the train, then down more stairs where I realised or thought I had brokedn the handle on my suitcase. I took a deep breathe and thought this is ok, deal with it when you get to your room.

However, our room was at the top of the steepest, deepest flight of stairs, I kinda freaked out, but with some help got up to my room, where I had a bit of a meltdown, between aching shoulder, broken suitcase and a freaking ugly heat rash on my legs (and hormones!) I could have gone home right there!!!

Once I settled - I did say I do not travel well - I made my way into the town and met everyone for drinks and started to feel myself again! The bar on the water does fabulous strawberry Margaritas, and then we had a great seafood dinner. Then we crashed and had a good nights sleep.

The next day we hit the Pirate Cafe at the top of the hill for breakfast - what an experience! Owned by twin Sicilian brothers, hilarious jokers and all home cooked pastries etc. I had hot chocolate - it was more like a hot chocolate sauce
- with a riccotta croissant, soft and again unlike any I have tasted. Never really been one to carry on about food, I am sorry I think I will be annoying the hell out of you all withmy food descriptions. At least all this walking and stairs is balancing everything out.

Pirate Cafe
 
We spent the day exploring some of the other towns on the Cinque Terre by train. We first visited Riomaggiore, where we wandered up and down, had a beer by the water and an easy lunch at the cafe. Then we headed to Manarola and explored their shops, streets and water front. Each town is similar but slightly different in terms of scenery. The people live on the hills and must be incredibly fit to move around. Lovely place to visit but I couldn't live here. Also very busy and very muggy. Weather has been overcast, but hot, hot, hot!!

Riomaggiore


Both photos from Manarola
 
That night we went to the pirate cafe for dinner, amazing 3 course meal with wine for only 25 Euro. I must say things are very reasonable here. I had a prawn cocktail - very different prawns, but delicious, then the spinach and ricotta canneloni, their pasta is very different to ours too, much lighter and easier to digest I think. Then we had a share of desserts for the table selected by the brothers for us  - hot chocolate sauce with vanilla gelato, pana cotta with fresh fruit and chocolate cannollis - Oh. My. God.

Drinks before dinner at Vernazza

Dessert
 
Yesterday we went to Pisa, we took 2 trains to get there and are starting to become a bit better getting around on the trainsport. I appear to be one fo the few people who have mastered the ticket machine, rather odd for me, but nice to get something right, lol!

We walked through Pisa to get to the leaning Tower area. About 30 minute walk, lovely town, lots to look at from old buildings, street performers, cafes, shops with great bargains etc. We almost forgot why we were there!

Town of Pisa

But then we turned down a street and got our first glimpse of the Tower, it was unbelievable to see something you have seen so long in books etc for real. It actually looked like someone had painted it at the end of the street. The closer you got the more remarkable the structure was. It really does lean and is REALLY hard to get a good photo of. If you look up, it looks like it will fall over onto you. There are other structures around, church etc, all beautiful as you can see. And heaps of vendors selling everything you can think of.

First glimpse
It really leans!
You have to do the touristy thing!

All the buildings together

By the time we caught the trains back we were exhausted, had pizza slices for afternoon tea...as you do...and a rest.

We headed into Manarola for dinner to celebrate Sue's 60th at Tarttoria  Locardo Il Portocciolo. They overfed us with 3 types of pasta for firsts - small squiggly pasta with basil pesto sauce, then spaghetti with little mussels, then linguini with mushrooms and prawns. We ordered seafood - Calamari - for seconds or mains. Then took the train back to crash - huge day!!


Calamari and linguini with huge prawn
 
Today is the wedding, so I will post more from Rome about that, we leave for Rome at 9am tomorrow. We are all very excited about the wedding today. Amanda and I are ushers, so we need to get up to the church first, hopefully I make it up there :)


4 comments:

Unknown said...

That is not a prawn it is a lobster!! What a whopper! Fabulous time being had obviously, not sure I would enjoy all the steps and no Europe does not seem to do assisted anything when it comes to mobility - not even bathrooms! Keep posting - brilliant!!

Simon Eade said...

It all sounds wonderful, especially the food, and great photos! I'd be as big as a house after a tour like that! The villages of the Cinque Terre look very quaint, love the seats in the steep streets. Some of the luggage handing sounds traumatic - it's s shame you didn't take a porter with you! Keep the tales coming...

The Fresh Ingredient said...

Sounds like you are having a ball! Remember to take a deep breath and relax and enjoy, even the more taxing bits! Keep the food descriptions coming....I'm seriously jealous. X x

Cathy said...

Hello, Trying to get next post up and the primitive Internet I am at and paying for does not let me upload photos!!! Really frustrating and the ipad is useless for that too. Will have to look around somewhere else tomorrow!
The food is marvellous, but we are walking heaps so so far seem to be balancing everything nicely.
Luggage carting has definately been problematic, but I guess I am still here to tell the tale ;)
Spent hours wandering Rome today, more on that later...hopefully.